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OK, I promise, this is the last episode on sharpening. There are just a few different tools left that really weren't covered by the other episodes so I wanted to touch on them before I move on. I'm going to be using several of these tools in an upcoming project series starting this fall, so I wanted to make sure I cover sharpening them for anyone who wants to follow along with the project. But this is the last one, honest, I'm moving on. :)

 


Comments

Sam Tinsley

Thu, 24 Sep 2009 08:42:41

The episodes on sharpening have been great. I have learned about how to sharpen tools that I have ,but didn't know how to sharpen.Looking forward to your project series.

 

Duane

Thu, 24 Sep 2009 09:16:14

Another excellent episode.

I'm looking forward to the project episodes.

 

Thu, 24 Sep 2009 17:33:16

Another great podcast! I've gotten as far as the auger bit files and just had to stop to comment. I was delighted that you didn't tell people to file the underside of the bevel on auger bits. Too many people try this and wreck the bit. That's a lovely Jennings bit, by the way. If you happen to have a bit that stalls in the wood then probably the underside of the bevel has been filed incorrectly. If you suspect this then you need to check to see if you have 10 degrees of relief on the bevel relative to the lead-screw. To check this manufacturers kindly produce their auger-bit files with 10 degree angles at the ends, so if you lay the safe edge of the auger bit file on the underside of the bevel you should be able to sight across the opposite side and see if it lines up with the helix angle of the lead-screw. If it doesn't, then there's your problem. You'll have to file the bottom of the bevel to match it up. Hard to describe without pictures.

M.Mike

 

Fri, 25 Sep 2009 03:26:22

Since I can't edit my previous comment let me clarify a point or two. What I should have said was "If you happen to have a *newly acquired* bit that stalls in the wood then possibly the underside of the bevel has been filed incorrectly.

M.Mike

 

Fri, 25 Sep 2009 20:05:56

Bob,

Another excellent episode. I have tried sharpening my scrapers both ways and I can't see much difference in cutting action. I can say that when you draw the edge however it seems the hook lasts longer. Can't confirm that but food for thought.

I see that you have a power tool weakness however in the child's Black and Decker playset in the background. Does your son know you stole his tools???

 

Sat, 26 Sep 2009 18:12:31

Thanks Guys! Glad you enjoyed it!

Sam, glad you found the info useful. I hope you going to sharpen them up and try using them now :).

Duane, Thanks! I received the plane by the way but lost your email so couldn't respond. The plane is perfect for the podcast and will clean up nicely so thank you once again! Your tools are almost done, I just have to heat treat the cutter for the marking gauge. I think they're real sharp. A little two tone duo. Should be in the mail on Monday.

Mike, Thanks again for the thoughtful comments. Once again, you point out an important piece of info. Yes, the auger bit cutting lips are just like plane irons and need to have adequate clearance behind the edge in order to cut or they will just spin and not do much of anything. While one can file the underside of the bevel as long as they maintain the proper angle, it's probably best to stick to only filing the upper part of the lip to avoid accidental alterations that could be detrimental to the cutting ability of the bit.

Shannon, Thanks for the feedback. So by "both ways" you mean with and without drawing the burr first? I'm glad to hear there isn't much difference. I thought there probably wouldn't be, it's just something I've always done since that's the way I learned. It always worked for me so I never felt the need to experiment. As for my power tool weakness, you got me :). In my defense, my daughters insisted that their bench be in the shop because that is where we work. We wouldn't want to leave tools all over the family room. Someone could get hurt :).

 



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