Episode # 5: Sharpening Part 1 - Logan Cabinet Shoppe

Episode # 5: Sharpening Part 1 08/14/2009

It's no secret that to do fine work we need sharp tools. So the next few episodes are going to be a series on sharpening all of the different tools commonly found in the hand tool shop.

I have three requirements for a good sharpening system:

1. It needs to be simple
2. It needs to be fast
3. It needs to be repeatable

While my chosen method of sharpening isn't for everyone, it works for me and meets these three requirements perfectly. In this first episode of the sharpening series, I cover the straight edged tools like the square and skewed chisels and plane irons.

Comments

Metalworker Mike

Fri, 14 Aug 2009 13:46:04

Another great episode, but I've just *got* to ask... why do you need a fire extinguisher in your shop?

M.Mike

Mark Mazzo

Sun, 16 Aug 2009 07:26:16

Hey Bob,

Very nice tutorial on sharpening straight edge tools.

I must admit that I have tried the free hand method before but not had great results. So, I have used a honing guide for a while now. The rocking motion with arms locked to your body is something I'll have to try. That looks like the "key ingredient" to success with this method.

I'd be interested in your methods for narrow chisels (i.e. 1/4" or 1/8") with the free hand method. Those were always the hardest for me to do well with.

--Mark
<a href="http://thecraftsmanspath.com">The Craftsman's Path</a>

Jason

Sun, 16 Aug 2009 09:57:14

I've always used a Veritas MKII honing guide and will do a primary and micro bevel on my chisels using the guide. Last week I picked up a Hirsch mortising chisel on clearance at the Lee Valley Store in Halifax. Someone had returned it after banging up the edge quite a bit and the back was poorly lapped. What they did do though, that I had never tried was to hollow grind the bevel. So last night I decided to clean up the chisel and put a keen edge on it. I was very surprised at how easy it is to sharpen freehand when the bevel has a hollow grind to it. Time to invest in a slow speed grinder, or a hand cranked grinder (where did you ever find that thing, it's awesome!)

Bob Rozaieski

Sun, 16 Aug 2009 11:30:56

Thanks guys! Glad you enjoyed it!

Mike,
Ever see what grinder sparks can do to a fluffy plane shaving if they land on it :)? I use plane shavings in a chimney starter to light my charcoal grill. They are fantastic tinder because they light faster than paper and burn hotter. Problem is they will ignite just as fast in the shop if some hot grinding sparks accidentally come in contact with them. Between the plane shavings and the stacks of cutoff lumber stacked in the various corners, my shop is a big tinder box.

Mark,
No shame in using a honing guide. If that's what works for you then stick with it. What's important is that you can get your tools sharp. If you do decide to try it, locking your arms and moving from your knees is a big help, but the hollow grind is actually more of an aid. It's much more difficult to keep the bevel registered flat to the stone with a flat grind. As for the smaller chisels, I do them the same way. The key is to focus on the pressure being applied by your lower hand (my left). If you try to move the tool with your top hand you will have a tendency to roll it. Move the tool with your low hand and you avoid this. It takes a few minutes of slow going to get the feel of doing most of the work with your lower hand but once you get the feeling, it becomes easy to replicate.

Jason,
Invest in a slow speed grinder or a hand crank if you like but they are really not necessary. I used a cheap imported Home Depot special high speed 6" grinder for years before getting my hands on the hand crank. The "secret", if you want to call it that, is to keep the grinding wheel dressed and not let it glaze over, cool the tool frequently in water if it starts to get hot and work slowly with a light touch on the coarsest wheel you can get. Coarse wheels cut faster but also cut cooler. A light touch is necessary to keep the wheel from glazing too quickly. If you do want a hand crank grinder, they are all over Ebay. Just make sure you get one that can handle at least a 6" diameter wheel as that is the most commonly sold size.

Mark Mazzo

Mon, 17 Aug 2009 08:22:51

Bob,

Thanks for the additional info.

I do already hollow grind my primary bevels. The honing guide certainly works well and my tools are very sharp, but I'd like to have the sharpening process be faster (as you suggested) so that I can quickly renew an edge and then get back to working wood.

I'll have to give the free-hand method a try again - with additional pressure on my lower hand with the narrow chisels and arms locked to my sides - to see how I can fare.

--Mark
The Craftsman's Path

simonm

Wed, 19 Aug 2009 05:47:19

Half an hour of pure gold.....
It's only taken you five episodes to develop a very relaxed and natural style of delivery.

I found your explanation of chasing the burr especially enlightening.
Have you found that working with the long edge of the stones parallel to the length of the bench is better than having the stone perpendicular to the bench?

Looking forward to the episode on curved edges - I've been having trouble with honing a jack plane iron that I radiused to try and prepare some very rough sawn stock.

Regards

simonm

Bob Rozaieski

Wed, 19 Aug 2009 07:02:23

Thanks Simon! I do find having the long edge of the stones parallel the front of the bench to be easier because I move from my knees, not my arms. If I were to hone front to back, I would have to move from my shoulders and elbows which, while a perfectly acceptable way to do it, doesn't work as well for me because I cannot lock my hands and arms to help maintain the bevel flat to the stone.

David

Fri, 23 Oct 2009 09:44:29

Great video/great resource, thanks for putting this up here.