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Recently I've read a lot of posts on the forums I frequent asking for recommendations for where to send a hand saw to be sharpened. In fact, there have been so many in the last few weeks that I think it's time for a blog about it. You see, I find it interesting that there is so much talk about the best waterstones and diamond stones and lapping compound, etc. but little talk about sharpening saws yourself. Why?!

Honestly, would you send your plane irons and chisels out every time they needd to be sharpened? I would hope not as that would mean you'd be without your tools a whole lot more that you had them in your shop. You probably wouldn't get too much work done. Or worse, you'd work with dull tools because you put off sending them off to get sharpened. Yet it seems like this is exactly what most folks are doing with their hand saws.

Unfortunately, what this means is that the majority of folks are probably working with saws that aren't really sharp. I really don't understand why there is so much fear of sharpening a saw. It seems like everyone is willing to dive right in and learn to sharpen their plane irons and chisels but very hesitant to consider sharpening their saws. But sharpening saws is so easy! And so much cheaper to get set up than buying yet another set of water stones (which I don't use by the way but everyone else seems to prefer them so that's why I mention them instead of oil stones). For the price of a single water stone you can get everything you need to sharpen your saws.

I'm not going to go into great detail on how to do it here as Pete Taran's saw filing page is a better resource than I could ever put together so no sense reinventing the wheel. Besides being here, the link to his saw sharpening pages is always in the Woodworking Links box at the right. Get yourself a couple of files (a mil file for jointing and a triangular tapered saw file or two depending on the saw[s] you need to sharpen). If your saw needs some set added, also pick up a plier type saw set. That's it for equipment! About $25-$30 worth of sharpening gear. That's about what it would cost to send a saw out for a single sharpening. Pete Taran's instructions will get you the rest of the way.

Make a simple saw vise in your shop with a couple of pieces of wood. I simply used my bench vise with a couple wood scraps to clamp the saw plate for a long time before I got a saw vise. I still do it this way sometimes as I'm not too fond of my current iron saw vise. You could also make a nice vise if you want to and there are plenty of plans for them on the net. Just search for saw vise or saw chops for several very good examples.

So that's my rant for today folks ;). If you read my post from a couple of days ago, maybe you might make saw sharpening your chosen new skill to learn this year. I gaurantee that once you try it and learn it you'll kick yourself for not learning to do it sooner. It really is as easy as I am making it sound. Your saws will thank you too as they will no longer have to suffer being less than optimally sharp. They will perform better for you, and, having sharp saws will improve your woodworking, I gaurantee it :)!


 


Comments

Marv

Fri, 09 Jan 2009 17:33:42

like the commercial....it's so simple, even a caveman can do it! Yeah, sure....go ahead and screw up your $150.00 16PPI dovetail saw. Or your $300.00 Wenzloff handsaw that you waited 9 months for. Grab a file and have at it.... Nothing to it!

 

Fri, 09 Jan 2009 20:43:00

Marv,
I understand where you are coming from but that's exactly what I'm saying. Do you send your LN planes back to LN every time they need to be sharpened or fettled? Same thing. I understand your point, and I believe a lot of other people feel the same way, i.e. "I might screw it up". But you have to try to learn. You won't get it perfect the first time just like when you were learning to sharpen plane irons and chisels but you'll get better with each sharpening. It doesn't need to be perfect to work well.

I'm sure the first time you ground a new bevel on a plane or chisel you felt the same way. But in all honesty, the worst that can happen is that you do screw it up and then send it out to have new teeth cut and sharpened. If you are going to send it out anyway why not try it yourself first? Believe me, you won't screw it up that bad ;). You can't screw it up beyond repair like you can by bluing a plane iron or chisel (OK they can be re-ground or re-hardned but you get my point).

If you can sharpen a chisel or plane iron you can sharpen a saw too. When there are nice new even teeth in a saw like a Wenz, it is easier to do. Correcting a beater with uneven teeth, bad set, wrong rake, etc. takes more practice. When you sharpen a saw that was set up right to begin with, it's like honing a chisel with a fresh perfect grind. Very minimal work basically just touching up the edge. I think it would be easier to learn on one of these nice new saws than an old junker that needs a lot of TLC. I'm telling you, give it a try :)! You might surprise yourself ;).

 

Sat, 10 Jan 2009 09:42:42

I am quite agreed that saw sharpening is a skill every hand tool woodworker should learn. It is tedious, but it isn't that hard is you read up and have good lighting and take advantage of all of the tips and tricks readily available to you. Did I mention good lighting? It is important.

There are some old tomes on www.toolemera.com that might help also.

That said, it seems there are a lot of guys who have a couple of saws for cutting dovetails and do all of the rest of their sawing on the tablesaw or bandsaw. Since a dovetail saw rarely needs sharpened if it is properly cared for, it might make sense to send it out once every five years.

However, if a woodworker is doing most or all of his cutting with handsaws and needs to sharpen a saw on a monthly or even weekly basis, it would be ridiculous to send them out unless your Uncle Harry is doing it in his garage next door.

For those who have expensive saws but no sharpening experience, I can understand the fear. It probably isn't warranted, but I understand.

Just go to you local big box store and buy a new cheap saw. Sharpen it. It will almost certainly be as good or improved after its first sharpening and it will take the edge off your fear.

I have done about seven saw sharpenings so far, and I think all of them have improved the saw. I am still getting better and am finally getting to the place that I feel like I am getting almost "professional" results. No saws have been ruined or even nearly ruined in my endeavors.

 

Alan

Sun, 11 Jan 2009 00:12:41

Pity me if I ever fear sharpening any of my saws because of cost, or because I waited to get the tool. Any good sawyer knows that your only as good as your last sharpening.


There is no two ways about it, if you use handsaws, you need to sharpen them period. Sharpening your saw is a good habit to get into when you pull it out to use. That way you will be using a sharp tool.

You got it right Robert! You hit the nail square on the head! Well said!

 

Sun, 11 Jan 2009 00:37:08

Bob,

I agree completely! It's a skill, with a learning curve, but it can be learned like any other. All it takes is a willingness to try and practice.

FWIW, if you take Luke's advice and buy a Borg saw to practice on, make sure it is not one with the Japanese style, hardened, teeth. They are made to be disposable - "Oh the humanity!"

 

Sun, 11 Jan 2009 06:09:33

Luke,
Excellent idea on buying a cheap saw from the BORG to learn on. It would have the teeth properly shaped and all even height, just like a new Wenz or other premium saw. That way you could focus on learning to sharpen without worrying about a complete restoration on a real beater with badly formed teeth. This would aleviate some of the fear of ruining a premium saw, though I agree with you that this fear is really unwarranted since you really cannot ruin the saw beyond repair simply trying to sharpen it.

Alan,
Thanks for the comment. You're right that saws need sharpening more often that most people sharpen them. This has led to the mis-guided bad reputation that Western saws have gotten over the years of being bad performers. Most bad experiences with Western saws are due to using a saw that is too dull to work well.

Dan,
Excellent point about not buying the "disposable" saws with the induction hardened teeth. It's important to make sure the teeth are Western style teeth and are not induction hardened. That would make sharpening quite a task.

Bob

 

Mike

Mon, 12 Jan 2009 19:29:57

Geez, Marv. Spread a bit of fear about such a simple task why don't ya? Unless you are teasing. In that case, ha ha.

My saw sharpening noes from WIA started out with a quote from Moxon:

"When workmen light of [find] a good blade, they don’t mind whether the teeth are sharp or deep or set well. For to make them so is a task they take to themselves, and thus they perform it. They wedge the blade of the saw hard into a whetting block ...

With the handle towards their left hand and the end of the saw to the right, then with a three-square [triangular] file they begin at the left hand end, leaning harder upon the side of the file on the right hand than on that side to the left hand so that they file the upperside of the tooth of the saw aslope towards the right hand, and the underside of the tooth a little aslope towards the left, or almost downright. Having filed one tooth thus, all the rest must be so filed."

Heck, I even sharpen the blades from my commissioned hand planes I waited for...

Take care, Mike

 

Alan

Tue, 13 Jan 2009 21:33:30

Mike wrote:
"Heck, I even sharpen the blades from my commissioned hand planes I waited for..."

I should hope so.

The process of crafting should include not only the sharpening, but tuning up the tool, and using it. This is a process which we all experience for ourselves, unique to each of us in the way we see/feel/create.

A true craftsman would not only desire to use the sharpest tools, but ensure such...

I really do wish Marv is teasing, but he sings this mantra about ruining saws all too often. In the software industry, they call spreading FUD (Fear, Uncertainty and Doubt). Seems fitting to this topic, IMO.

Cheers,

 



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