Menu:

 
Picture
Loose Dovetails
So here it is. The result of my avoidable mistake. Actually, this one isn't the worst one. I'm a little too embarrassed to show the really bad one. At any rate, this joint does not fit together tight enough to hold without being fixed. Sometimes you can get away with a slightly loose joint when using hide glue, especially if only one of the tails is loose but the others are good. In this case, the entire joint is bad. It would fall out on it's own so it needs to be fixed.

Picture
Planing the Wedge
I begin making the repair by making a really long wedge. I want something with almost no taper when it's cut to size. The last thing I want to do is drive in a fast tapering wedge and split the drawer side. Then I'd have no choice but to make a new piece. Instead, I take a stick from the cutoff bin and plane a long taper into it. I clamp one end to the bench (you can just barely see the clamp bar below the bench) and plane a taper into it by planing right off the bench. I want something that basically feathers at the end.

Picture
The Wedge
The resulting wedge looks something like this. The end is very fragile but I'll cut it off gradually as I fit the wedge to the gap.


Picture
Cutting the Wedge
I cut a length off of the stick about 1-1/2" long using a chisel. I then make the wedge the width of the tail with the same chisel. I begin fitting the wedge by cutting a clean edge on the wedge with the chisel. I try the fit in the gap and if it is too loose, I pare the end back. I want the fit so that I can push the wedge in with finger pressure and it closes the gap completely. Be careful here as a wedge that fits too tightly can easily split the pin board. You should be able to insert and remove the wedge without any help from a mallet. The glue will make the fit tighter later so don't make it too tight now.


Picture
Fit the Wedges
Fit all of the wedges dry before you begin gluing anything in place. Once you start gluing, you can't make any adjustments. Make sure everything fits snug but not too tight and then label every joint and it's respective wedge so you can be sure to put the wedges back in exactly the same spot and orientation when the glue goes on. You need to work relatively quickly. This is where the slow setting time of liquid hide glue really shines. The slow set time gives you plenty of time to glue and assemble the entire drawer before inserting any wedges. You may need to tap the wedges in once the glue is on but do so gently. You don't want to snap a wedge off below the surface once it has glue on it.


Picture
Pare and Plane
Once the glue has dried, carefully pare the wedges down to the surface with a really sharp chisel. There's still a chance of breaking them off below the joint surface so take it slow. Once the wedges are pared low enough, you can switch to a plane and clean up the joint surface as you normally would a joint that didn't need repair. The wedges are readily visible in the final joint as it's very difficult to match the end grain perfectly to make them disappear. Really, I'm probably the only one that will ever notice them, but they will serve as a constant reminder of my mistake and hopefully prevent me from making it again.

 
 

So I'm knocking out the drawer for my shop desk tonight. Simple stuff, right? I mean I've done dozens of these so no problem. I sized all of the drawer parts just a shaving or two over sized to allow for fitting the drawer to the desk later. I scribed all of the baselines, laid out the tail cuts on the sides, gang cut the tails and cleaned out the waste. The tails were looking pretty good and I was pretty happy with myself so I decided to press on even though it was a long day and I was getting pretty tired. I figured if I could just get the pins cut I could glue up the box tonight and it would be ready to fit a bottom tomorrow.

So I transfer all of my tails to their corresponding pin board being careful to pay close attention to orientation of the boards. On to cutting the pins. All was going well (or so I thought) until I got to my last corner of pins. That's when I realized it. I had cut the pins on the previous three corners on the wrong side of the line. Test fitting the sides into the front and back confirmed my unexcusable mistake.

I actually made two mistakes in my overconfidence and haste. The first mistake was a very foolish one made simply by being in a hurry. I did not mark the waste side of the line with big Xs like I usually do. This led to my second mistake, cutting the pins on the wrong side of the line. So I ended up with one nice dovetailed corner and three corners with gaps the size of the Grand Canyon (ok, maybe not that big, but still).

I guess the morals of this story are pretty obvious.

1. ALWAYS  mark the waste, even if you think you don't need to. No matter how many times you've done a particular operation, it only takes one dumb mistake to put your ego right back where it belongs.

2. NEVER work when you're too tired. Even though I'm not going to accidentally cut off an appendage with hand tools (I'd have to be pretty determined), there can still be some pretty serious consequences. I'm lucky I just made a mistake on my project, however, a simple misplaced hand during a paring cut or an improperly secured workpiece can still result in a pretty serious injury, even with hand tools. (As a side note, didn't we just finish Woodworker's Safety Week?)

I don't think I'm going to remake any of the parts of the drawer. Instead, I'll use them and repair the mis-cut joints as best as possible. This will serve as a constant reminder of my mistake and hopefully dissuade me from making it again.

There is one positive that can be gotten from this though. I have my next blog topic all set up for me.....how to fix loose dovetail joints.

 
 

Well, after a couple feeler blog posts and a long time toying with the idea, I have finally begun making preparations for a hand tool video podcast. I put together a short trailer video just to test out the video hosting service and you can watch that below. If all goes well, the actual video podcast should be up and running in a short while from now, after I finish my current project, a desk for my shop.

Thanks to every one who posted comments to the two previous blog posts about this or sent emails with your encouragement. Without all of your support I probably wouldn't have bothered to even pursue putting this together. Wish me luck and let's hope this all works out well. Stay tuned!


 
 

After years of [ab]use, my trusty saw bench is ready to retire. However, before I can retire the old I must make a new. So that was the project this weekend.

The saw bench is an absolute must have appliance for the hand tool shop. A pair is even better, especially if you process long stock in your shop with hand saws. In addition to supporting stock at a comfortable and convenient height for crosscutting and ripping, the saw bench serves a myriad of other uses in the shop. I use mine to sit on when boring with a brace, as a side table to hold tools and project parts when working at the shave horse, as support for case pieces when I'm planing their dovetails flush, as a bench to sit at when drawing at my workbench, as a step to reach the boards on the top tier of my lumber rack, as a place to sit and take a coffee break and as a second workbench for my kids when they are in the shop "working" with me.

I don't like to over complicate tools and appliances for the shop as I consider them disposable. They get used hard and take a lot of abuse so I don't use expensive lumber or complicated joinery. I want something that will be sturdy and will last but won't cost a lot and will be quick and easy to build. The style of saw bench pictured fits that bill nicely and can be built with cheap lumber and traditional joinery. This makes it very sturdy since it doesn't rely on the strength of mechanical fasteners like nails or screws, but it also stays very lightweight and easy to move around or store out of the way when not needed. It's relatively small at about 30" long by about 12" wide and at about 18" tall (approximately knee height for me) it is the perfect height for processing lumber with hand saws. No shop should be without one of these, or preferably a pair.

Check out the Articles page to see how it was built.


 

    Categories

    All
    Antiques
    Carving
    Design
    Hardware
    Layout
    Planes
    Podcast
    Projects
    Saws
    Sharpening
    Tools
    Turning
    Workbench
    Workshop



    Archives

    November 2009
    October 2009
    September 2009
    August 2009
    July 2009
    June 2009
    May 2009
    April 2009
    March 2009
    February 2009
    January 2009
    December 2008
    November 2008
    October 2008
    September 2008
    August 2008
    July 2008



    Useful Links

    Woodwright's Shop
    Sawmill Creek
    Woodcentral
    Woodnet
    SAPFM
    Hand Saw Filing
    How to Sharpen Edge Tools
    Unplugged Shop



    Hand Tool Retailers

    Tools for Working Wood
    Traditional Woodworking
    The Best Things
    Clark & Williams
    Wenzloff Saws
    Lie-Nielsen
    Lee Valley Tools
    Adria Tools



    Lumber & Supplies

    Hearne Hardwoods
    Irion Lumber
    Mr. Robert's Lumber
    Horton Brasses
    White Chapel Ltd.
    Londonderry Brasses
    Tremont Nail
    Old Fashioned Milk Paint Co.
    Real Milk Paint Co.



    Blogroll

    RSS Feed